Monday, October 18, 2021

The Real top wineries of New Zealand

A few weeks ago, I discussed a possible listing of The Real top wineries of Australia. What I did was look at the winery rankings from The Real Review, a web site run by Huon Hooke and Bob Campbell, along with their collaborators (listed here). Huon is an Australian and Bob a New Zealander, so both countries are covered by the website. Here, I look at the New Zealand wineries.

New Zealand wine has become globally recognized. For example, the JamesSuckling.com site has just released their notes for the 760 bottles that they rated in the past year and a half (New Zealand comes alive: Vibrancy, diversity and a Goldilocks vintage). The average quality score was 91.8 (with a median of 92); and one wine scored 100: Kumeu River Chardonnay Kumeu Mate's Vineyard 2020. The report summary notes:
Freshness is something that really stood out in our tastings and ratings of top New Zealand wines ... The wines have an uncanny texture and vibrant flavor profile that combine in a unique way — not only with ripe and transparent fruit character but also with round mouthfeel, brightness and length.

New Zealand vineyard map

Each year since 2018, The Real Review has presented a ranking of the wineries from New Zealand. The rankings are based on the average scores for all of the wines they have tasted during that year, from each of the wineries. However, it is important to emphasize that only a subset of the wines of New Zealand get tasted in any given year. In this sense, it is entirely possible for a winery to not be ranked in a particular year, even if it has scored highly in other years, simply because insufficient wines were rated that year (the minimum necessary appears to be 2).

Many wine commentators seem to see their job as encouragement, and thus present optimistic wine ratings, for example. The Real Review, on the other hand, prides itself on being much more realistic. In this sense, their wine scores and winery rankings might well be a very good place to start listing top wineries.


As I did for Australia, what I have done is download the winery lists for each of the four years (2018, 2019, 2020, 2021). These simply list the wineries in rank order of their wine scores, with a different number of wineries each year. I then pooled the yearly lists for each country, giving me a combined list of 262 wineries for New Zealand, which I will report on here.

From these combined lists I extracted the data for only those wineries that appeared in all four yearly lists, which is 99 (38%) of them. (Number of wineries that appeared three times: 51, appeared twice: 51, appeared once: 61.) These consistent wineries were then given a new rank, within each year, based solely on this subset of the wineries. I then averaged these rankings, thus producing a list showing those wineries that rated consistently well across all fours years.

This final list is included at the bottom of the post.


Bizarrely, if we compare this list with the Wine & Spirits Top 100 Wineries of 2021 (“as determined by their performance in the magazine’s two-step blind-tasting process, and celebrated for their exceptional wines”), then we find no wineries listed at all. Australia and Chile each get three wineries listed, and Chile and South Africa get one each, but New Zealand gets absolutely nothing.

On the other hand, The World’s Best Vineyards is “an annual listing that highlights the very best winery destinations in the world ... [This] provides an insight into the best all-round winery experiences.” From the list below, we find Craggy Range (11th), Felton Road (52), Black Estate (63), Ata Rangi (69), Man O'War Vineyards (79), and Kumeu River (91). Missing from our list is Rippon Vineyards, from Central Otago (15th), which had insufficient wine reviews to be included in the Real Review listing.

Interestingly, if we peruse the regions from which these wineries come, Marlborough accounts for 30% of them, although it produces 75% of New Zealand’s wine. Hawke's Bay comes next, with 18% ow the wineries, followed by Martinborough, with 11%.

Finally, The Real Review does have a list of Top Value Wines of New Zealand. However, this may not do you much good this year, since it has been noted that NZ wine lovers are facing shortages and higher prices, due to a small vintage and massive international demand.



New Zealand’s top wineries, as consistently ranked by The Real Review

Rank
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
Average score
97.5
96.8
96.8
95.5
94.5
93.5
88.5
88.0
85.3
84.5
84.0
84.0
83.5
83.0
83.0
80.3
79.5
79.3
76.8
76.5
71.8
71.5
70.5
69.8
69.3
69.3
68.8
67.8
67.3
66.3
65.8
65.5
65.5
64.5
63.8
62.3
61.8
61.3
61.0
59.3
58.8
58.8
58.5
56.8
56.5
56.0
54.0
53.0
53.0
50.3
50.0
50.0
50.0
48.0
44.3
43.5
41.3
40.3
39.8
39.0
38.0
37.5
37.0
36.5
35.3
33.8
32.3
30.0
29.8
29.5
28.8
28.3
28.3
27.5
26.3
25.3
25.0
24.0
24.0
23.8
23.0
22.0
21.8
21.8
21.3
20.3
20.0
16.8
16.5
16.0
14.3
13.8
12.5
11.5
9.5
9.5
9.3
8.5
7.0
Winery
Craggy Range
Destiny Bay
Felton Road Wines
Framingham
Kusuda Wines
Dry River Wines
Pegasus Bay
Quartz Reef
Trinity Hill
Elephant Hill Estate
Clearview Estate Winery
Te Mata Estate
Villa Maria
Church Road
Vidal Estate
Greystone Wines
Pyramid Valley Vineyards
Terra Sancta
Smith & Sheth
Ata Rangi
No 1 Family Estate
Blank Canvas
Seresin Estate
Te Whare Ra Wines
Akarua
Fromm Winery
Esk Valley
Giesen Wine Estate
Rockburn Wines
Astrolabe Wines
Kumeu River
Man O'War Vineyards
Mills Reef
Neudorf
Clos Henri
Misha's Vineyard
Stonecroft
Margrain Vineyard
Dog Point Vineyard
Black Estate
Palliser Estate
Valli
Sacred Hill Wines
Tantalus Estate
Amisfield
Chard Farm
Saint Clair Family Estate
Foxes Island Wines
Obsidian
Nautilus Estate
Escarpment
Grasshopper Rock
Mondillo Vineyards
Forrest Estate
Matt Connell Wines
Tony Bish
Rapaura Springs
Domain Road Vineyard
Te Awanga Estate
Te Motu
Soho Wine Co
Mudbrick
Two Rivers
Luna Estate
Nga Waka
Hunter's Wines
Urlar
Alpha Domus
Coopers Creek
Huia
Mahi Wines
Lawsons Dry Hills Wines
Whitehaven
Johanneshof Cellars
On Giants Shoulders
Sam Harrop Wines
Jules Taylor Wines
Isabel Estate Vineyard
Mount Edward
Johner Estate
The Elder Pinot Wines
Borthwick Vineyard
Clark Estate
Lamont Wines
Te Kairanga Estate
Yealands Estate Wines
Ash Ridge Wines
Cable Bay Vineyards
Tohu
Pask
Moutere Hills
Wither Hills
Zephyr
Mission Estate
Allan Scott Family Winemakers
Two Sisters Vineyard
Black Barn Vineyards
Mt Beautiful
Peregrine Wines

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