A problem for wine-makers in Sweden?

We have all heard that cellar-door tastings have been seriously affected by the current Covid-19 pandemic. This has caused especial consternation among wine-makers who rely on direct-to-customer sales. It has also, of course, annoyed those who wish to partake in wine tourism.

However, this has not been the slightest problem here in Sweden. This is because here is no such thing as cellar-door sales. As I have noted before (Why are there wine monopolies in Scandinavia?), all retail sales in Sweden must go through a single liquor chain, called Systembolaget. This means that, while a winery might be able to conduct tastings, they have to send potential customers down the road to the nearest shop.

Now, obviously, this annoys the pants off the wine-makers. As a personal perspective on the current situation, below is a translation of a recent article about this, from my local newspaper, Upsala Nya Tidning (published 2020-10-25, on p. 14). The original article is called Vinodlaren om förbudet: "Skadar landsbygden", about one of my two local grape-growers (in the province of Uppland). The grape-grower involved is pictured below next to his vineyard (but that is the neighbor's mansion in the background).

In fact, objections to this situation have been raised for a long time. For example, back on 11 September 2012 there was a national media report headed Wine growers rebel (Vinodlarna gör uppror), about the same topic:

The Swedish wine growers are on the warpath. If there is no decision on farm sales, they plan to defy the law and sell anyway ... It was at the annual meeting during the weekend that the Swedish wine growers decided to investigate the possibility of opening their farms for sale despite the ban ... The wine growers also intend to contact microbreweries and fruit wine sellers to try to get them involved in the protest.

The question of whether Swedish wine growers should have the opportunity to sell wine on the farm has been discussed since the 1990s. The Riksdag [national parliament] has at times had the matter up for consideration and in 2007 appointed a special inquiry which came to the conclusion that the sale should be allowed. But the objections have been many ...

... the purpose of the action is to bring about a judicial review that can go to the European Court of Justice. There, there may be an examination of the entire Swedish sales monopoly that exists through Systembolaget.

This situation has not been changed, until recently. The European Union is unlikely to have an official position on the matter, as this is solely a national affair. This EU attitude differs importantly from their 2007 decision against Systembolaget, which concerned transport of alcohol among EU member countries (not sales within a single country). In the 2007 case, a single Swede (Klas Rosengren) simply tried to import some Spanish wine from a Danish retailer, knowing full well that this action would result in a court prosecution, and thus get the situation reviewed. This action was ultimately successful in getting things changed (see the final EU Court of Justice report).

A current possibility of a change in the situation for farm sales in Sweden has actually made it into a recent article in The Economist (The state's grip on grape and grain: a proposal to water down Sweden’s state monopoly on booze). Sweden currently has a minority government (which is not unusual), based on a group of several political parties having a loose agreement among themselves (none of this two-party system for Swedes, like some other countries have!). In this case, the Economist article notes that the moderate Centerpartiet (Center Party) has negotiated a consultation about the introduction of farm sales, in exchange for their parliamentary support of the minority government.

We shall see what happens with this consultation, which will take at least a couple of years. Mind you, wine-making in Sweden is not yet ready to take on the wine-makers of the rest of the world. The 500 SEK bottle of Swedish wine referred to below would cost less than half of that if it came from anywhere else.

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The winegrower about the ban: "Damages the countryside"

By Jennifer Berg Eidebo.

Two years ago, Björn Wollentz started a winery in Häggeby. In the future, he wants to sell sparkling quality wines, but he is afraid that the regulations regarding alcohol sales will put a dent in his wheel.

Lillhassla winery is located in Häggeby, next to Ekoln. There are 2,500 vines that will become sparkling wines for around 500 SEK [US$55] per bottle. There are still a few years left until the wine willbe ready for sale, but already now the wine grower has encountered problems with Swedish bureaucracy.

"Everything from writing the place on the label to being able to offer farm sales takes place naturally in other countries, but not in Swedish bureaucracy," says winemaker Björn Wollentz.

It is, above all, the rules regarding farm sales that create problems.

"As I understand it, you can offer tasting, but if someone wants to buy a bottle and take it home, it's no go."

Swedish producers of alcohol who want to sell their products may do so via Systembolaget or restaurants with an alcohol license. But Wollentz wants to be able to sell directly from the vineyard, preferably in collaboration with other local producers.

"Being able to offer wine tasting with bread from local bakeries and cheese or jam from local producers, would create a synergy. It should be in the public interest, so that the countryside does not become depopulated."

Wollentz plans not to live on his wine production, but works everyday at the Ministry of Defense. He has also not dared to take out a loan, but is responsible for all of the investments himself.

"I am very worried about what sticks the regulations will put in the wheel."

Wollentz thinks that farm sales should be allowed, without harming public health. Another one who is on the same track is Björn-Owe Björk (Christian Democrat political party), responsible for regional development in Uppsala County.

"I think farm sales should be allowed for wineries or breweries. It would be good for the countryside and small businesses."

The issue of farm sales has been raised several times over the years. In 2020, the issue will be investigated again.

"It is positive that the government will investigate it again, because it means that somewhere the ambition exists to bring about a change," says Björk.

Wollentz is confident that he will be able to find solutions for his wines, even if farm sales are not allowed in the future. But he believes it will harm the countryside.

"We will get sales for our wines, but there will be no synergy in the countryside. This is still Uppland's first winery, at least since the Viking Age [official end: 1100 CE]," says Björn Wollentz.