Monday, December 22, 2025
Christmas drink traditions in Sweden
The first of these drinks (glögg) is a punch or mulled wine, which is traditionally consumed during winter, especially around Christmas. The recipes vary widely throughout Scandinavia, but essentially it is based on white or sweet wine, or spirits such as brandy or cognac. Water is first boiled and the chosen spices are added to it, and this is simmered. The resulting mixture is sieved, and the wine or spirits are added; or fruit juice is added for a non-alcoholic version. It is consumed with gingerbread (round, star-shaped, heart-shaped), and almonds and sultanas are soaked in the brew in the special cup it is served in. You can read more about it here, or watch a video here.
The second drink (julmust) is a soda. The underlying syrup (called must) is apparently made exclusively by Roberts in the town of Örebro. This syrup is sold to soft-drink manufacturers, who then make the final product their own way. The syrup is apparently made of carbonated water, sugar, hop extract, malt extract, spices, caramel colouring, and citric acid. You can read more about it here or here.
The third drink (svagdricka) is a low-alcohol malt drink (less than 2.25% ABV). It is sweet and dark. You can read a little more about it here.
There are also the specially brewed Christmas beers, both alcohol-free and otherwise. Swedes love their beers, and there are special brews released for different celebrations (Säsongslanseringar = Seasonal releases), including Easter, and Octoberfest, in addition to Christmas. You can check out the current alcoholic releases (80 at the time of writing, mainly ales, and dark or medium-dark lagers) from the alcohol-monopoly (Systembolaget), with the catalog at: Julöl. I should also note that many of the low-alcohol beers in Sweden are actually very good.
Sweden also makes many fruit wines, as I recently noted in my post: What countries are best represented in Sweden’s wine retailer monopoly?
Jack Jakobsson has a summary (in Swedish) of the 2025 Xmas drink releases at: Julen 2025: Systembolaget | hela provningen.
This is, indeed, a joyous time! God jul! 1
1 Note that on 27 August 2025 a publication appeared called: How much is too much? A methodological investigation of the literature on alcohol consumption and health. It states: “We conclude that the claim that ‘there is no safe level’ of alcohol intake is not sufficiently supported based on our current scientific knowledge.” Quite right, too.
Monday, May 26, 2025
What countries are best represented in Sweden’s wine retailer monopoly?
The point here is that government regulation of alcohol consumption is widely practiced around the world, including ownership of the alcohol-retail chain. For example, the history of Prohibition in the U.S.A. is intimately concerned with this topic. In that case, after ceasing the ban on alcohol retail of any sort, there were several subsequent suggestions of government control of alcohol sales, leading to the adoption of the current Three-tier System (A brief history of the three-tier system in America), in which distribution and retail must be carried out by separate companies.
Well, in Sweden’s case, there is an import/production group of companies, which is not hindered by the government, while the government formally owns the retail company (Systembolaget = The System Company). However, it seems to offer no impedance to how this company carries out its activities, in practice. This is all to the good for the (adult) populace, including me.
Import of wine is important in Sweden, because there are not a lot of local vineyards and wineries (Swedish wineries — who'd have thought it?). So, it is of interest to ask where most of the wines available in the shops do actually come from. That is what I have shown in this graph, based on the Systembolaget database, showing the number of individual wines (not their total volume), irrespective of vintage or bottle size. It shows 92.6% of the total of 16,386 available wines.
It can come as no surprise to any of you that the top three sources are the three biggest wine-producing countries in Europe, given that Sweden is part of the 27-nation European Union. So France (28.7% of the wines), Italy (25.0%) and Spain (11.6%) supply 65% of the Systembolaget wines between them. Perhaps slightly more surprising is that Germany (4.4%) and Portugal (3.5%) do not fare so well.
South Africa (4.5%) and the USA (4.0%) surprisingly do better than Australia (2.6%), which slightly bests Austria (2.4%). Given the current political ruckus, the US contribution may soon decrease, of course. South America also does not do so well (Chile 1.5%; Argentina 1.3%).
What I have left out of the graph is the contribution of both Sweden (2.2%) and Japan (0.6%). This is because they do not contribute much in the way of Vitis vinifera wines. Sweden does contribute 367 wines: 91 whites, 30 sparkling, 23 rosé, and 21 reds; but it also contributes 95 fruit wines, and 75 glögg (mulled wines). Japan contributes 94 wines, including 66 sake, and 22 fruit wines.
Anyway, this is enough for the current series of blog posts about wine retail in Sweden. However, things are likely to change at any time. For example, Georgia is currently a candidate country for joining the European Union, having applied for membership in March 2022 and officially been granted candidate status in December 2023. They seem to be keen to get their wines onto shelves around Europe (eg. Georgia backs UK growth with upped investment), presumably including Sweden.
Monday, May 19, 2025
The broad availability of United States wine in Sweden’s wine retailer
The obvious place to start is with simply how many different wines are currently listed in the Systembolaget catalog. It looks like this first figure.
Well, 672 wines is not necessarily a big deal to an American, but for a small European country it is pretty darned good. As expected, California (= “Kalifornien” in Swedish] dominates, with more than 80% of the wines, but Washington and Oregon also get a look in.
There are 471 red wines, 176 white wines, 12 rosé, 5 sparkling, 6 flavored / fruit wines, and 2 are mixed boxes. Of these wines, 112 are in the standard store assortment (ie. they should be in most stores, and their local supply is renewed), 197 are in the temporary assortment (ie. their supply is limited, and is not necessarily renewed), and 360 need to be ordered (ie. they are not in the shops, but will be delivered to your local store upon request to the importer).
Of these wines, 526 are in standard glass bottles, 88 are in lighter bottles, 28 are boxed wines (with plastic tap), 13 are in PET bottles, 11 are in cans, 5 are in cardboard packaging, and 1 is in a pouch. If you want even more details: 59 of the bottles have a screw cap, and 4 have a synthetic cork.
The wines are mostly relatively recent vintages, as shown in the next figure, but they do go back to 2009. The alcohol content is stated to vary from 7% to 19%.
In US dollars, the wines vary from $3.50 (187 ml) to $4.60 (250 ml) to $5.90 (375 ml) to $7.90 (750 ml), all the way up to $10,000. There are 180 wines (27%) retailing at $20 or less. The six most expensive packages are as shown next (NB: $US1 = 10 kronor). Note that the first item refers to a mixed box of 3 bottles (ie. $4,000 each bottle).
There are many different grape varieties available, as listed in the next figure. (Note that some of the names are actually synonyms).
If we consider what foods the wines are claimed to be suitable to accompany, then the list looks like the following figure. Note that Nut (“nöt” in Swedish) = Beef.
Finally, getting technical, if we define Lower carbon footprint as 0—400 g CO2e/l (carbon dioxide equivalents per liter) then 55 wines are stated to qualify; and we define Average carbon footprint as 401—650 g CO2e/l then 102 wines are stated to qualify; and Higher carbon footprint is 651—1475 g CO2e/l then 511 wines are stated to qualify.
So, all in all, I think that the Swedes do quite well in terms of wine from the United States of America. How long this lasts will be determined by how the current tariff ruckus is resolved, of course.
* The U.S. three-tier system was originally designed to prevent monopolies, indicating that Americans do indeed object to this business arrangement.
Monday, May 5, 2025
The availability of older wine vintages in a wine monopoly
I have written about this situation quite a number of times, pointing out that the situation is not really the way it is painted by outsiders (ie. sales are not stifled). For example:
- Which countries are dominated by only a few alcohol suppliers?
- Why are there wine monopolies in Scandinavia?
- The WHO is making a mistake about state-owned alcohol retailers
- Wine monopolies, and the availability of wine
- The availability of wines in government-owned retail monopolies
- The availability of older wine vintages in Sweden?
It is the topic of this latter post, about older vintages, that is of interest here. In that post, from 2024, I listed all of the available Australian wines at least 5 years since vintage, available in Systembolaget. There were 24 of them, vintage dated 2013–2018. This seems to me is not too bad a selection, from a single source country, and all of the wines should still be quite drinkable. However, people used to specialist wine shops might find that this selection is nothing to write home about, especially in countries like the USA, where specialty retail is expected.
Today I am going to look at all of the available wines vintage–dated prior to 2000 (ie. last century), irrespective of their country of origin.
The table below shows the results of my searching in the Systembolaget database. These are all table wines, not fortified wines (which can be much older, as their higher alcohol content preserves them). I have shown the Swedish (SEK) price for each wine. Note that US$ 1 ≈ 10 SEK, which makes the conversion easy.
So, there are 7 red wines and 6 whites. This may not impress connoisseurs; but for the Swedish national retail chain, where almost all of the alcohol sold is budget stuff for everyday drinking (the classic “wines for the table not the cellar”), it is as good as I would expect.
All of these wines should still be quite drinkable.
For example, the four Moulin Touchais wines come from a winery that specializes in a semi-sweet wine of great age; so many other old vintages have been available as well (see: Tasting the magical sweet wines of Moulin Touchais through the ages).
Similarly, the current release of the Xavier Vignon wine was not bottled until 2022, and it is widely available elsewhere (Wine-Searcher).
Also, although the company no longer exists, Richmond Grove long specialized in limited releases of its Watervale Riesling (e.g. in 2012 Chris Shanahan noted that the winery offered Watervale Rieslings from 1996 to 2011).
The Luis Pato wine was tasted in 2023 / 2024 by Wine Anorak, and given a score of 95/100.
A perusal of the Wine-Searcher database shows that the Giacomo Borgogno wine is widely available elsewhere. All of the other wines are also still available elsewhere (e.g. Bodegas Campillo, Fontanafredda, Jean Leon, Mastroberardino, Vajo dei Masi).
These wines are rarely actually in any of the Systembolaget retail stores, but are still in the importer / distributor warehouse. They can be ordered through the Systembolaget online order system, and arrive a few days later at my local store, where I collect (and pay for) them. This system works quite well.
Monday, December 2, 2024
Sweden is not actually restricted to a government alcohol retail monopoly
This week, I discuss the fact that beer is a completely different thing:
The basic point here is that Sweden distinguishes between low-alcohol and high-alcohol drinks, and high-alcohol drinks can be sold only through Systembolaget. Low-alcohol beer (up to and including 3.5%), on the other hand, can be sold through supermarkets (livsmedelbutiker).
This situation has existed on and off for nearly a century, because Sweden has traditionally been a beer country, as well as a spirits-drinking country. It is the latter (spirits) that was being addressed by the creation of Systembolaget, as I discussed in last week's post.
Sweden basically recognizes four types of beer, based on alcohol content by volume (Beer in Sweden):
Light beer (lättöl) <2.25%
Folk beer (folköl) 2.25—3.5%
Medium beer (mellanöl) 3.5—4.5%
Strong beer (starköl) >4.5%
Up to and including Folk beer can be sold in food shops, but Medium and Strong beer can be sold only through Systembolaget.
So, it is Mellanöl that has been the topic at issue for the government. The original plan was to get the people off the spirits and onto Medium beer, instead. So, they allowed it to be sold in food shops (The rise and fall of medium beer):
The introduction of middle beer in the 1960s is connected with the return of strong beer in 1955. Strong beer had been banned since 1923. During the entire counter-book period when alcohol was rationed in Sweden, it was basically only possible to get hold of strong beer at a pharmacy if you had a doctor's prescription. Otherwise, it was pilsner with roughly the same alcohol strength as today's Folk beer.
Medium beer had a stormy and short career in the Swedish grocery stores 1965–1977. The idea was that it would make the Swedes more sober; but instead it came to be associated with problems and drunkenness. The Medium beer got its own tax class, class IIB, which was beer with an alcohol content between 3.5 and 4.5 percent by volume. After the Medium beer ban, all beer over 3.5% by volume was classified as Strong beer.
So, the current situation is that anything up to and including 3.5% alcohol can be sold in the supermarkets. To illustrate this situation, I manually went through the online catalog of my local supermarket (ICA) to create a list, and supplemented it by scanning the shelves. The resulting summary is shown in the above table. There are at least 90 different beers, with the majority at either 0.0% (alkoholfri) or 3.5% (folköl) alcohol by volume.
This is not too shabby; and remember this represents only one supermarket chain — there are two other large ones (Coop; City Gross) that will have somewhat different selections. However, most of the beers are not all that exciting — they are beers for the masses, not the connoisseurs. For this, we must turn to Systembolaget.
So, I have also gone through their online catalog (Systembolaget), as I did last week for wine. The resulting summary is shown in the table above. This is much better! There are 4,243 alcohol-containing beers and 58 alcohol-free beers; and Swedes clearly prefer their ales and lagers, as you can see. The alcohol content can get pretty high, for beers (max 17.2%), making most of the styles Strong beers (as defined above).
Most of the beers are produced in Sweden, as shown in the table below for the eight most-productive countries. Belgium, Great Britain, the United States and Germany also provide quite a few, for a market of <10 million people.
Interestingly, there are, indeed, some specialist beers among the crowd. As but one example, there are beers with specified years of production, dating back to 2015 (2 beers), 2016 (3), 2017 (1), 2018 (5), 2019 (2) and 2020 (5). Sweden is responsible for 9 of these beers, Belgium 5, Denmark 3, and the USA 1 (as shown in the picture below).
How long this situation will continue is not clear. There are, for example, repeated proposals to the government to allow wine to also be sold in supermarkets (eg. 2015, 2023). After all, Sweden is part of the European Union, and so we can freely bring stuff in from there, not the least being alcoholic beverages. What is the point of the local government being restrictive?
There is also the recently expressed opinion that even alcohol-free beer is not a sign of societal progress (Alcohol-free beer hype is unhelpful). Tom Wark rightly has a go at this idea (First they came for alcohol...now they come for non-alcohol). Mind you, it has also been reported that Beer-only drinkers’ diets are worse than wine drinkers. Take note!
In the meantime, like all Swedes, I am currently stocking up on my specially brewed Christmas beers, both alcohol-free and otherwise, along with glögg and julmust. This is, indeed, a joyous time!
Monday, November 25, 2024
The availability of wines in government-owned retail monopolies
I have looked at this topic before (The availability of older wine vintages in Sweden?). That post has an introduction to the topic, but it looks only at Australian wine (because that is what I am most familiar with). So, in this new post I will now extend my coverage to all vintage-dated wines.
I will start, however, by briefly looking at why Sweden’s alcohol sales are supervised by the national government in the first place. They do this by owning the national retail chain, called Systembolaget (The System Company). It has this name because it replaced the pre-existing local “Systems”, by uniting them all.
Government ownership of retail alcohol sales is common in the Nordic countries, as it currently also exists in Norway (Vinmonopolet), Finland (Alko) and Iceland (Vínbúðin). So, Sweden and Finland are a bit odd, because they are both in the European Union, where alcohol is not otherwise supervised. (Norway and Iceland, and also Switzerland, refuse to join the EU.)
The idea of the government taking some sort of control of alcohol availability stems from the long-standing Nordic tradition of drinking lots of strong spirits, which is widely recognized as not being good for your health. So, it is not really a response to any sort of temperance movement (as was Prohibition in the USA, for example), but is instead an example of the government caring about its citizens. (Seriously: the governments are socialist institutions in the Nordic countries!)
Thus, back 7 decades ago when Systembolaget was founded, the government’s stated reasoning was to sell alcohol without profit interest, which would limit the negative effects of alcohol on society (Systembolaget’s history).
So, the modern Systembolaget was born in 1955 when a large number of regional System companies merged into a single nationwide company. Now, alcohol would be freely available for all Swedes who are over 21 years old, and who are not drunk or suspected of being drunk, to buy alcohol in Systembolaget’s stores (From mountain men to Bratt):
The mission is the same now as then: to sell alcohol in a responsible manner with concern for public health. History has taught us that the Swedes’ relationship to alcohol has not been the best. Systembolaget is to lead the way to get Swedes to learn to drink wine instead of spirits and to develop new alcohol-free alternatives.So, the old System stores had been located largely in secluded back streets, but alcohol sales now came out into the public (Our stores: from back streets to the city centre). Furthermore, things have continued to change since then; for example:
- In 1966, after almost 10 years of campaigning, wine overtook brandy as the most sold drink at Systembolaget.
- In 1984, a specialist wine shop opened in Marmorhallarna in Stockholm.
- In 1991, Systembolaget opened a test store with self-service in Filipstad; and since then almost all stores are self-service.
- In 1999, the Riksdag (national government) approved that Systembolaget can have extended opening hours on weekdays, and accept debit and credit cards, as well as the possibility of ordering via the internet.
- Sadly, Saturday closing was introduced in 1982; and not until 2001 were the stores open again on Saturdays (The Saturday closed years).
- In connection with Systembolaget’s 50th anniversary in 2005, CEO Anitra Steen sent an open letter to European Commission President José Manuel Barroso (and it was published as an advertisement in the Financial Times) that Swedish alcohol consumption is low thanks to Systembolaget’s retail monopoly.
Anyway, enough of the writing. Let’s look at the data. In the above graph, I have shown a count of all of the vintage-dated non-fortified wines currently available via Systembolaget, both in (at least one of) the stores or via an internet order. I have plotted the data separately for each of the 12 biggest supplying nations (Sweden does not make much wine itself).
You can see that most of the wines come from Italy (29%) and France (28%), followed by Spain (13%). Furthermore, they come from the most recent half-dozen vintages. However, they do go all the way back 45 years, with 33 French wines available from last century, along with 6 from Italy, 2 from Spain, and one each from Portugal and Germany.
If you think that this is a poor selection of wines available to Swedes, then you need your head read! This is at least as good as was available to me back when I lived in Australia; and it is easier to get at it because it comes via a national retail chain. All I do is fill in an internet order form, and a few days later the wine is ready to be picked up at my local store — easy peasy.
We can also look at fortified wines, in a similar manner. The above table lists the ones currently available from the 5 biggest supplying nations. Obviously, most of them are from Portugal (Port and Madeira). Once again, this seems to me to be a pretty impressive selection; and it goes back a very long way. There is also the ample non-vintage stuff, of course, which I have not listed here.
Being in the European Union makes a lot of products readily available in Sweden, and this includes alcoholic beverages. The fact that the government officially owns the sole retail-alcohol chain seems to make no difference whatsoever. Indeed, the fact that it is formally run without profit motive probably works in our favour, as the customers, as this is likely to make a wider selection of products remain in the catalog, once released.
I, for one, am very happy with my retail alcohol selection, and its ease of access. I really do not care who formally owns the shops themselves. So, to those of you who have a negative view of government retail monopolies, I think your are wrong, at least in the case of Swedish alcohol.
Of course, none of this addresses the completely separate issue of trade sales of alcohol. There is plenty of stuff available to restaurants, bars and caterers that is not available retail. For example, in the Italian restaurant I was in the other day, I had two very nice apple ciders from the north of Italy, plus an Italian brandy distilled on 20 Oct 1975. Not bad going!
Monday, June 24, 2024
The availability of older wine vintages in Sweden?
The objection to government monopolies is usually that they “manifestly cause waste and inefficiency, while denying consumers the range of price and service options they desire”. I have previously argued that this is not true for Systembolaget: (i) I have pointed out that, as the third biggest alcohol retailer in the world, Systembolaget provides me with a wide range of wines of all styles and origins (Wine monopolies, and the availability of wine), and (ii) decent wine is less expensive in Sweden compared to most other places, and sometimes cheaper even than in its homeland (Why is wine often cheaper in Sweden than elsewhere?). Also, Systembolaget was recently voted among the most trusted institutions in Sweden, with 71% of the respondents having high confidence (Most trusted institutions/companies in Sweden in 2023).
It therefore seems to be an obvious extension of this topic to ask about the availability of older vintages of wines, as well as simply the current release from any given winery. Price is not everything, in the wine world. So, what I will do here is look at the availability of older vintages of Australian wine (because that is where I come from), currently in bottles in Systembolaget. As an aside, Systembolaget reports that boxes represent roughly 60% of wine sales, rather than bottles. [This retailer is known to the locals as “Systemet” = The System.]
The table below shows the results of my searching in the database. These are all of the Australian wines at least 5 years since vintage. I have shown the Swedish (SEK) price for each wine. Note that US$ 1 ≈ 10 SEK, which makes the conversion easy. The prices are usually not discounted after initial release, but sometimes it does happen, presumably to clear the stock. For example, the Paulett Chardonnay was recently reduced to 99sek.
I should point out that most of these wines were originally released as the current vintage release, and they have simply gone unsold by the importer / distributor. This does not matter in practice, provided that the wines have been stored suitably. According to what I can find out online, all of these wines should still be quite drinkable, as indicated in the third column of the table (best years in which to drink).
This looks to me like a reasonable selection (two dozen); and provided that the wines are still drinkable it is worthwhile. However, people used to specialist wine shops might find that this selection is nothing to write home about, especially in countries like the USA, where specialty retail is expected, and Australia (eg. Wynns Black Label hits purple patch). However, for the Swedish national retail chain, where almost all of the alcohol sold is budget stuff for everyday drinking (the classic “wines for the table not the cellar”), it is as good as I would expect. These wines have effectively been in a cellar (the importer) for several years, and they can be in a cellar (mine) for a few more yet.
These wines are rarely actually in any of the retail stores, but are still in the importer / distributor warehouse. ** They can be ordered through the Systembolaget online order system, and arrive a few days later at my local store, where I collect (and pay for) them.
It has been suggested to me that these wines might be specific inventory that went unsold during the Covid19 pandemic. However, to me this seems unlikely, as it is customers not restaurants ordering through Systembolaget, and they could continue to order exactly as usual all during the pandemic slowdown.
On a disappointing note, I recently ordered three of these wines, and in one case I was substituted the 2018 vintage instead of the 2016 — on a brighter note, I got a 30% discount.
* Small-scale farm-producer sales of alcohol are to be allowed in Sweden by 2025, according to the government. Yay!
** A recent survey indicated that, for younger people, Cost of shipping, Customer service, and Communication about order status are more important than Wide variety of choices.
Monday, August 21, 2023
The modern (sustainable?) world of wine packaging
Everyone in the modern world knows about Climate Change and its basic cause (increased human production of so-called Greenhouse Gases, notably CO2. So, there are now explicit governmental directives to address this issue (e.g. EU reaches new milestone to make all new cars and vans zero-emission from 2035), although we do not know whether these will be effective anywhere near fast enough.
In this regard, there recently has been a rash of articles about the long-term sustainability of the packaging used in the wine industry (see the list below). If we wish to address the issue of the wine industry’s impact on the world’s climate, then change can’t happen overnight; and so we need to act sooner rather than later.
So, the world’s top wine-producing countries, including France, Italy, the U.S.A., Australia, Chile, Argentina and South Africa, have pledged to have carbon dioxide (CO2) net zero-emission by 2050; and >50% of the carbon footprint of a bottle of wine comes from the packaging. Sadly, we have recently been told (Global beverage industry lags behind green targets) that: “the global beverage industry ... is not currently on course to meet either its 2030 or 2050 greenhouse gas targets.”
For wine-making itself, there has been the expansion of organic and biodynamic production, and the emergence of ‘natural’ orange and pet nat styles. However, for wine’s packaging we have always had the same basic four options: glass, metal, plastic, or cardboard; and there has also been the option of re-using (ie. re-filling) the containers. How do these options compare?
To find out, the five Nordic government-owned alcohol retailers have launched a joint program to combat climate change. They have (Can the Nordic monopolies turn the drinks world green?): “combined forces to cut carbon emissions by 50% by 2030. These countries have a high rate of recycling and acceptance of alternative packaging.” As part of this effort, Alko (from Finland) and Systembolaget (from Sweden) have done life-cycle analyses of alternative packaging to determine the volume of carbon produced when manufacturing and using each packaging option.
The resulting data were (in g CO2 e / l):
- Glass bottle 722
- Light glass bottle 523
- PET bottle 283
- Returnable bottle 110
- Can 163
- Bag-in-box 70
- Paper packaging 84
- Plastic bag 141
As we might suspect, a standard wine bottle is the worst of all — it can weigh >900 grams, while the lightest glass wine bottles on the market now dip down below 400 g. So, this standard bottle CO2 “cost” is what the wine industry needs to work on for the future, because around 40% of the carbon footprint of a bottle of wine comes from the glass bottle itself.
As an aside, it is worth pointing out that glass recycling is often quite successful, as shown in this graph for the European Union (Recycling rates in Europe: glass lags behind in Germany). This matters, because manufacturing a bottle from recycled material involves much less heat, and thus generates far less CO2. Recycling is thus an essential part of any sustainable system.
There are all sorts of sustainable–packaging initiatives that have recently been proposed within the wine industry. For example, these articles will bring you up to date:
- These winemakers say consumers should be concerned about glass bottles
- How 3 Sonoma and Napa county wineries have changed their packaging to help environment
- Familia Torres sets ambitious goals for 2023
- Meet the eco-packaging innovations transforming the drinks industry
- The No 1 thing that needs to change in wine packaging
- How canned wine is attracting new drinkers
- First wine bottle made from rPET for US market
- We’re in the golden age of boxed wine (seriously)
- Could reuse be the future of wine packaging?
- Wine packaging: embracing re-use amid challenges
One important question, though, is where are we at the moment? What progress has already been made? In this regard, we have been told (How canned wine is attracting new drinkers) that: “We are also seeing huge interest in cans from the Nordic countries, especially Sweden which has a sustainability focus to their wine buying habits and are much more adventurous with alternative wine packaging.” So, we could do worse than look at the current data for Sweden, to see where the advance guard currently might be.
I have therefore delved into Sweden's Systembolaget database, and come up with the following table. The packaging types are the rows, and the alcohol types are the columns, with the number of SKUs being the contents of the cells. As you can see, there are getting on for a total of 24,000 SKUs, with the vast majority of them being standard glass bottles. This does not indicate much progress, as yet!
There are some light-glass bottles in the list, and a few PET bottles (there is a refundable deposit on the latter). Fortunately, almost all of these are wines. There are 10% as many cans as bottles (there is also a refundable deposit on these), although almost all of them beers, not wines. Bag-in-box and paper packaging, however, both focus on wines, few as they are.
Interestingly, the (non-can, non-PET) returnable containers are for beers. However, Erica Landin-Löfving has noted (Could reuse be the future of wine packaging?): “When I was a child in Sweden, we had refillable wine bottles. Not in the Italian or French sense where you brought your bottles and refilled; instead we returned bottles to monopoly stores and they cleaned and refilled them like milk bottles.” Those days are long gone, apparently. Remember, re-use involves a 90% reduction in carbon emissions, and it does not produce waste, nor does the product involve a shelf life.
Anyway, it does seem that the global beverage industry is, indeed, not currently on course to meet its greenhouse gas targets. Even the keen countries (like Sweden) do not have access to the sorts of modern (sustainable) wine packaging that they would like / need. So, let's get into it!
Monday, May 11, 2020
How do Covid-19 lock-downs affect wine blog readership?
I have written once before about the Covid-19 pandemic (There seems to be a lot of public misunderstanding about the coronavirus). Most of what I said then is still true now, in hindsight.
However, there are number of quite significant things that have become obvious since then, with hindsight. The extent to which many people are asymptomatic is perhaps the biggest thing, because these people are unknowingly spreading the virus (SARS-CoV-2) to others. This is perhaps the main reason why we have a pandemic rather than a simple outbreak (such as with annual flu hot-spots) — it is estimated that anything up to 85% of cases (virus infections) have gone unreported (as the disease) in some countries.
This is an important point, given that a number of places are now starting to ease their quarantine restrictions, popularly known as lock-downs or shut-downs. These lock-downs have had very variable success at decreasing the rate of spread of the virus. For example, comparing countries near my home, they seem to have worked well in Norway and Finland, but much less well in the United Kingdom. Indeed, the UK has a worse infection rate than we have here in Sweden, where the quarantine strategies are voluntary rather than mandatory. The USA, of course, has an even worse infection rate than the UK.
The specialists are all warning of a resurgence of infections, as the successfully quarantined people (ie. never infected) come out from behind their locked doors and meet infectious situations (ie. people and places with the virus). This usually happens with infectious diseases, and so there is no reason to think it won’t happen this time, as well. It seems that people retain the virus in their bodies for anything up to 4-5 weeks after infection, rather than merely the 10 days or so during which they have disease symptoms.
This means that the virus is still circulating in our environment, even though many people are now immune (ie. they got the virus, and now have produced antibodies to it). This is why testing of asymptomatic people is seen as a key to our future response to the pandemic (for a wine-related report, see Coronavirus: asymptomatic testing for vineyard where worker tested positive).
Blog readership
Anyway, it is time to consider something that I have not seen reported, as yet, by bloggers. I keep a bit of an eye on the readership of my various blog posts, and it has been obvious that the lock-downs had a quite quick effect on the weekly number of page-views of my blog. If we exclude the possibility that (i) I suddenly started writing boring posts (which cannot be excluded completely), or that (ii) people are too busy reading about the economic, social and biological effects of viruses to have much time for wine blogs (which seems unlikely), or (iii) many of my readers have become ill (which would be very sad), then we might conclude that the drop in blog readership is due to changed social behavior by some of my previous readers.
Overall blog readership is shown in the first graph, which simply counts the total number of page-views for each of the past 7 months. The April readership is 78% of the average for the prior months. This is not too bad.
However, the most obvious effect is on the readership of individual posts. Most of my blog readers access each post on the day it is posted. Only a few of the posts continue to attract new readers thereafter. So, a graph of the page-views for each post since the beginning of the year is very revealing about weekly readership. This analysis provides data for 10 pre-virus posts and 8 post-virus posts, if we exclude the post that was actually about the virus itself (on March 23rd), rather than about wine.
If we compare the pre- and post-virus posts (next graph), then the readership of the latter is only 35% of the former, on average. This is a pretty serious drop in readership, as two-thirds of my regular readers have disappeared into the æther. (Mind you, this is slightly less than the estimated four-fifths drop in champagne sales.)
This dip among readers started during the first week of March, which does coincide with the first global effects of the coronavirus. Although lock-downs in the USA were not fully enforced until the end of March (except in North Dakota, South Dakota and Wyoming), most things started much earlier. The World Health Organization declared a worldwide pandemic on 11th March; and even the tardy United Kingdom started their lock-down 12 days later. Moreover, the USA started implementing stay-at-home recommendations during the same week as the WHO declaration. American restaurant reservations took a dive on 9th March, although New York started its decline 10 days earlier (How coronavirus is devastating the restaurant business); and hourly jobs posted on Snagajob actually started dropping from March 5 (Hourly job market update: categories where jobs are growing, and where they are gone).
The immediate cause of the drop in readership may well be a combination of reduced work-based access to computers, as well as a lack of work-based activity of any sort. The USA officially had 15% unemployment back in April, with a “currently-not-employed” level higher than that; and Los Angeles now reports a 24% unemployment level, which has not been seen since The Great Depression (24.9% in 1933).
The pandemic has certainly been disruptive for most parts of the wine industry, and the hospitality business in general. Sadly, this is likely to continue, because most current media surveys indicate that people are not going to be returning to restaurants and bars in a hurry. More to the point, the anticipated ongoing customer-distancing (quarantine) requirements are not going to be economically viable in an industry that usually requires 80% capacity just to break even,
If nothing else, with a slow return to something closer to normality, it will be a relief to start reading some wine-related writing that isn’t about the depressing effects of Covid-19.
Footnote
The biggest wine-related effect of the pandemic on me, personally, has been my inability to get the wines I want. I have mentioned in previous posts that the wines of usual interest come as part of the “occasional assortment”, which has releases every couple of weeks, as they come in small supply (Wine monopolies, and the availability of wine). I usually have to order these wines, for delivery to my local store, because my town is poorly serviced in the shops (My annoyances with my alcohol monopoly). Well, this is the only service that Systembolaget has changed — they have cancelled order delivery of these particular wines, and these wines only. If the wine is not in your local store, then tough. So, I have not bought much wine lately, apparently unlike most of the rest of the world. How ironic!
Monday, December 2, 2019
Why are there wine monopolies in Scandinavia?
If a government takes control of any of these things, there is always the same intended good reason for it. They are providing a service in an industry where cutting corners, with the incentive of increasing profit, may not be a good idea.
For example, the railways of the USA cannot support modern high-speed trains because the initial lines were built “on the cheap“ by industry, whose motive was to make money, not provide transportation. On the other hand, in Europe and elsewhere the lines were often built with government funds, and those governments have continued to maintain the networks. (See: The rest of the industrialized world has high-speed rail, why can’t the U.S.?) The USA has moved almost entirely to road (and air) transport, with a lot of lobbying from the road-based interests, and rail has been sadly neglected. Times may change — after all, China laid down the world’s largest high-speed rail network in just two decades (to replace its high-polluting domestic air business).
Alcohol
For alcohol, on the other hand, government control usually has to do with health. Indeed, current consumer surveys continue to list health as the main reason for voluntarily abstaining from alcohol intake, especially amongst Millenials. However, government edicts are hardly voluntary, at least compared to government support for the current Dry January campaigns.
The temperance movements have long presented both health and moral arguments against alcohol. Most of my readers will be familiar with the anti-alcohol movements in English-speaking countries. As recently noted by Paul Nugent: “The temperance movements ... were well-organized, globally-connected, typically led by Protestant evangelicals and very largely driven by ordinary women.”
Similar temperance pressure has also existed elsewhere, often with very different effects from the alcohol bans that you are familiar with. For example, Joseph Bohling explains (2018. The Sober Revolution: Appellation Wine and the Transformation of France) that the effect in France was to create the modern system of clearly demarcated high-quality wine-making regions, in order to encourage people away from drinking large amounts of cheap wine. In the second half of the 1900s, wine consumption per capita halved, while appellation wines rose to >50% of the volume consumed.
Alcohol problems occur notably in societies where binge drinking of spirits has long been accepted cultural behavior. You can see the current list of countries with problems in the following map, where an increasing amount of blue indicates increasing prevalence of alcohol-use health problems (Alcohol Use Disorders DALYs, Age-Standardized Rate, 2017).
Note that these problem countries tend to be in the colder northern regions — spirits can keep you warm during the long dark winters. However, some of the tropical countries are not excluded, for entirely different reasons.
In the (Protestant) Nordic countries (Finland plus the Scandinavian countries; Scandinavia = Denmark, Iceland, Norway, Sweden) binge drinking used to be part of the culture. Traditionally, fruit (ie. non-grape) wines and beer might be consumed with food, or might not. However, the drinking of spirits was part of a completely separate set of activities. The basic idea was to keep drinking until you literally couldn’t continue — it was more like a sports challenge than anything else, with the participants mostly being male.
So, the idea that the governments might try to take control of this situation should not come as a surprise — “Sell alcohol without any profit, and then we can limit the negative effects of alcohol on society” was the motto. The argument was that if the governments got control of the supply, then two things could happen: (i) individuals acquiring unreasonable amounts of alcohol would be made very difficult, especially for drunk persons; and (ii) the populace could be educated to consume alcohol in the manner of southern Europe — that is, in moderation, with meals.
The alternative approach to control has always been high taxes, of course. At various times, all of the Nordic countries have been world-renowned for their alcohol taxes, although currently none of them are particularly onerous. The idea of introducing Prohibition was not really an option, given the failure of that approach in the USA. Sweden actually rejected it in a 1922 referendum, while Norway briefly tried it on spirits (from 1921-1926) and fortified wine (1921-1923). However, Iceland did have Prohibition of one sort or another from 1915 onwards, but dropped the ban on wine in 1922, spirits and low-alcohol beer in 1935, and strong beer in 1989 (!).
The current situation
Denmark, unlike the other countries, never has had government control of alcohol, except in the semi-independent Faroe Islands, which has had an alcohol monopoly since 1992 (through the Rúsdrekkasøla Landsites stores). It may not be insignificant that Denmark’s colour in the above map is quite dark, compared to the other Nordic countries.
Norway is not a member of the European Union (EU), but it is a part of the European Free Trade Association, and therefore abides by many EU requirements. Its government has had complete control over alcohol sales since 1922 (through Vinmonopolet = The Wine Monopoly), currently including spirits, wine and non-low-alcohol beer. Note that, in the above map, Norway is light blue, which paler colour is probably not accidental. The government previously also held monopolies over alcohol importation and wholesaling, but these were dropped in 1996, as part of the European Free Trade agreement.
Iceland is also a member of the European Free Trade Association, rather than the EU. Its government has had complete control over alcohol sales since 1961 (through Vínbúðin = The Wine Shop). It is worth noting that for both Iceland and Norway, the problematic aspect of their flirtation with Prohibition was wine sales, because banning wine meant that the European countries with which they traded fish (especially France and Spain) refused to take any seafood unless they could send wine in return. The governments therefore needed to take control of wine sales, rather than trying to prevent them.
Finland still has government control of alcohol sales (through Alko Oy), although when it joined the EU in 1995 its concomitant monopolies over alcohol production and bulk importation had to be dropped. Sadly, total consumption of alcohol in Finland increased up until to 2007, and alcohol-related problems were also recorded to increase (see Upward trends in alcohol consumption and related harm in Finland). More than a decade ago, I was in Helsinki just before morning peak-hour, and the park outside my hotel was well-populated by people who were “under the weather” (all male) — they were literally cleared away by the police just before the morning commuters arrived.
Things have apparently improved greatly since then (see Alcohol consumption in Finland has decreased, but over half a million are still at risk from excessive drinking), although the color of Finland in the map above is still rather bluish. Moreover, Finland recently introduced a new alcohol act of parliament, allowing, for example, stronger beverages to now be sold in grocery stores — the results are being monitored, of course (Finland has avoided dreaded effects of new alcohol act, so far).
Sweden has the biggest population of the Nordic countries, and also produces the biggest alcohol-consumption revenue, being 21st worldwide (Finland =29, Norway = 30, Denmark = 32).
The Swedish government did not have alcohol production or importation monopolies when it joined the EU (unlike Finland and Norway), but it did retain a monopoly over sales. However, a few years ago Sweden dropped control of trade sales (restaurants, bars, caterers, etc), while still retaining control of retail sales (through Systembolaget = The System Company). In the above map, Sweden is yellowish, the best of all the Nordic countries.
Sweden’s Systembolaget was founded in 1955, when a large number of regional sales outlets, based on a strict rationing system that had been in place since World War I, were merged into a single national company (originally called Systemet = The System). As the company itself puts it: “The old System stores were largely located on hidden back streets. The signs were unobtrusive, and the windows advertised completely different goods, such as clothes and shoes. But when the new Systembolaget was founded in 1955, the management decided to bring the stores into the city centre.”
I first encountered Systembolaget in 1998; and it was as primitive as you are all expecting a monopoly to be, in terms of service. You had to ask for your bottles across a counter, having waited patiently in a ticketed queue; the weekday opening hours were rather short (10 am to 3 pm); and the queues on Friday afternoon (open until 5 pm) were extensive, because the shops were not open on weekends.
Actually, the shops apparently originally were open on Saturdays, because it was a workday (and a school day!). So, it was 1982 when Saturday closing was introduced; and this remained in force until 2001 (although even now the stores still close at 3 pm on Saturday). A few partial self-service stores started to appear from 1984, with the first fully self-service store opening in 1991. However, it was not until 2013 that all of the stores had adopted this format. Limited online-ordering was instituted in 2001, culminating in full home delivery in 2012, which became nationwide in 2019. There are also numerous agents that will receive ordered alcohol, and keep it until you can collect it.
So, my previous blog posts about Systembolaget (click the keyword search in the column to the right) describe the current situation, not the past. Today, it really does behave like a liquor chain of international standing (with 3,500 employees), in spite of my pet peeves. The fact that it is government-owned is not, in practice, relevant, other than the positive effect of the increased purchasing power that can be achieved by a truly national chain.
Footnote on the downside of large monopolies:
Back in 2005-2008 there was a large corruption court case in Sweden, in which 92 people were indicted for receiving or giving bribes. Of these, 77 of them were Systembolaget employees, accused of receiving money, travel and other gifts from suppliers in exchange for promoting their goods. At least 65 people were found guilty.
Monday, November 4, 2019
My annoyances with my alcohol monopoly
I have written about Systembolaget before, and I recently pointed out its principal advantage — wine is often cheaper than elsewhere in the EU, and sometimes cheaper than in its homeland (Can we trust between-country or between-state comparisons of wine costs?). This has apparently annoyed some of those readers who object to monopolies just on principle.
So, in order to balance things, in this post I will discuss some of my pet peeves about having to deal with Systembolaget. This is just to make it clear that not everything is roses, and also to get my annoyances off my chest (I am glad that you are here to read about it).
The objection to government monopolies is usually that they “manifestly cause waste and inefficiency, while denying consumers the range of price and service options they desire”. I have previously argued that this is not true for Systembolaget: (i) I have pointed out that, as the third biggest alcohol retailer in the world, Systembolaget provides me with a wide range of wines (Wine monopolies, and the availability of wine), and (ii) decent wine is less expensive in Sweden compared to most other places (Why is wine often cheaper in Sweden than elsewhere?).
Any beefs that I have must therefore be about service. Below, I list the five things that have annoyed me over the years.
1. Crazy choices of wine name in the database
A wine database should list the name of the wine, the name of the producer, and the name of the grape-growing region (along with other information, of course). However, Systembolaget is likely to choose something quite arbitrary as the main title for their database entry — some of the staff apparently cannot distinguish between the brand name, the producer name, and the appellation. Sometimes they swap the wine name and the producer name, and sometimes they leave one of them out entirely. Indeed, the largest name on the bottle label may not be the one chosen for the database title, which can be confusing when you are looking for a bottle in a store.
Here is an example of three apple ciders released for sale at the same time. Note that in the third case the brand name and the producer name (Pomologik) have been swapped. This is sadly typical of what the database presents to users.
2. A cavalier attitude to vintages
Systembolaget has an explicit policy not to care about wine vintages. The staff in the store apologize for this, since it is obviously crazy, but there seems to be nothing they can do about it. Anyway, you can imagine the confusion this can cause.
First, the database may list one vintage while the central warehouse supplies a later one, without warning; and the database may not be updated for some time (see below). For example, on 12 September I ordered half-bottles of 10 different wines, and 4 of them had different vintages to what was advertized (two whites were 2017 instead of 2016, one red was 2015 instead of 2014, and one red was 2018 instead on 2015 (!)).
Second, what is available in any given shop may not match either the database or the warehouse, depending on how long the bottles have been in the store. Indeed, the information on the shelf-talkers may not even match what it on the shelf bottles. A fortnight ago I came across two different white wines where the shelf-talkers said 2017 while all of the 20 bottles except one were the 2018 vintage.
Finally, it is entirely likely that the staff will simply shove the bottles of the new vintage in front of the old ones. So, if you look carefully, you will sometimes find old vintages at the back of the shelf. In the white-wine example in the previous paragraph, one of the 2017 bottles was in the back row and one was in the second-back row.
This can create interesting situations, of course. I once ordered a red wine from the warehouse of a particular vintage, and then found two previous vintages of the same wine in my local shop. So, I got to do an interesting 3-vintage comparative tasting, just because Systembolaget does not care about vintages. A similar situation occurred more recently, when I found two Australian rosé vintages (2018 and 2019) — the older vintage was considerably darker, and the aroma considerably more muted, presumably from sitting in the shop for an extra year. It is not all bad (just annoying most of the time).
3. The database is sometimes not up-to-date
There are three main ways this can happen.
The first one is the vintages, as referred to above. The vintage listed in the database may not be the one actually present in any given store. There is only one way to find the vintage you want — go to each store and check every bottle on the shelf.
Second, if there are only a few bottles listed as being present in a particular store, then it is probably a database error. Indeed, if only one store lists a particular wine, then it will definitely be a database error. Do not get your hopes up.
Third, most wines are not actually available in the main warehouse, but are instead stored by the distributor (mostly an importer, of course). This causes an information disconnection — if the distributor does not inform Systembolaget of changes in availability, then the database will be wrong. Things are much better these days, compared to a decade ago, but it can sometimes be a lottery ordering a wine that has to come directly from the distributor.
4. The ordering of “temporary assortment” wines
The Tillfälligt sortiment refers to bottle collections that are released c. 20 times per year (c. 60-90 products per release). This is the assortment from which I get most of my wines, because it is usually here that the interesting stuff appears.
The products are released at precisely 10 am on Fridays, and cannot be ordered beforehand. The products will appear only in a selected few shops, depending on the quantities available, but they can all be ordered from the central warehouse, and will then turn up at my local store a few days later. How long the products remain available after release is determined entirely by the quantities — once they run out, that is it.
Sadly, I usually have to order them, because my local store is not one of the selected few stores where they are available (see below). So I always order within an hour of the release, just to be safe. Obviously, this requirement to order online at a specified moment is a real pain in the butt. However, the only other way to do it is to go to one of the stores that actually has the wine — they are unlikely to run out as fast as the warehouse.
And the warehouse can run out very fast. For example, last September 6 I tried to order one of the 360 bottles of the 2009 Viña Gravonia stated to be available in the warehouse. I clicked the order button literally within the first few seconds after 10 am, but I was still told that the product was now “not available” from the warehouse.
The really annoying part, though, is that even days later there were still bottles of this wine available in all three of the stores where some had been placed. However, I cannot order any of those bottles during the first week after release — I have to go one of the stores; and, of course, after a week (when I could order them) they had all gone.
There must be a better way.
5. My home town is discriminated against
I live in the fourth largest town in Sweden, and the government recently “upgraded” it to city status (due to population size). Systembolaget does not know any of this. This is mostly annoying with regard to the Tillfälligt sortiment referred to above.
First, rare bottles are distributed only to the three largest cities — we get no allocation whatsoever. Second, when the bottles are supplied, we clearly do not get enough for the local populace, because we are always the first place to run out. Therefore, if there is any county without a particular wine, it will be mine. I used to feel that I should be paranoid about this, but I got over it — it is just a fact of life. Occasionally, a town in a nearby county will have what I want, and a 30–45 minute drive will snare me a bottle before it disappears; but this is a ridiculous way to have to do it, even when it works.
It is time for Systembolaget to get into the modern world. If the government can do it, then their monopolies should be able to do it, too.
Conclusion
None of these issues is a deal breaker. They are annoyances and frustrations, but not unendurable. Perhaps it is the price that I have to pay for getting wine more cheaply than elsewhere. If so, then so be it.
Historically, monopolies can be very effective, but they are also known for their abuse of power, and sometimes just sheer laziness. The latter seems to be the case with Systembolaget. However, even within this context they are amateurs compared to one place I worked as a teenager — the TV Times magazine (in Australia), which was the government-owned competitor to the commercial TV Week. What went on there beggars belief; it is no wonder that it folded soon afterwards.





































